Manufacture of shoes.



J. GAVANGH.

MANUFACTURE 0F SHOES.

APPLlcATIoN FILED AUG.31.1910.

Patented Aug. 11, 1914.

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UNITED T OFFICE.

J'AMES CAVANAGH, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOEMACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

Patented Aug. 11, 1914i. Application filed August 31, 1910. Serial No.579,814.

To all whom tmay concern: is the fact that the securing of the upper Beit known that I, JAMEs CAVANAGH, a along the sides and around the toe ofthe citizen of the United States, residing at s hoe constitutes a singlecontinuous opera- Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State tion. Itcan be done uninterruptedly with of Massachusetts, have invented certainIma single tool or setV of tools and a single fasproveniente in theManufacture of Shoes, of toning material thus simplifying and exwhichthe following description, in connecpediting the operation, By thismethod no tion with the accompanying drawings, is a obstruction isapplied to the shoe which will speciiication, like reference characterson delay the welting operation or cause breakthe drawings indicatinglike parts in the age of sewing needles. There are no lasting Severalfigures f tacks or wires to remove from the slice This invention relatesto theinanufacture preparatory to or after the welting operaof boots andshoes and particularly to lasttion and no liability that a tack or aportion ing shoes. It was t-he practice formerly iu of a tack stem willbe left in the shoe to making welt shoes to secure the upper 1n overdullthe inseam trimmer or to work into 70 worked position by tacks driventhrough it the wearers foot. A very important adinto the innersole aboutthe sides and the vantage over sewing all around the shoe as toe end ofthe shoe. It was found necessary heretoforev suggested is that the upperand to drive the tacks close together about the the lip are notmutilated and weakened toe to hold that portion of the upper. Thesearound the toe as is necessary in such sewclosely placed tacks about thetoe cut up the ing operation. upper and the innersole badly and thetacks The invention will be more fully eX- constituted such a. seriousobstruction to the plained. in the following description, refer. weltsewing-on or welting operation that encebeing had to theaccompanyingdrawthe lasting tacks had to be pulled out when ing in which, is shownone form of ap` 8O the upper had somewhat set in its stretched paratusby the aid of which the invent-ion condition and a smaller number ofmore may be practised. y slender stay tacks provided in their Figure lis a perspective view of a por-- places. These, however, areobjectionable tion of a lasting machine in which a slice only inless-degree, for the same reasons, as appears with the upper overworkedand 85. the lastingtacks. To reducethese difiiculheld in position to besecured, together with ties it has-become the practice to tack the asewingtool being used to form a stitch sides of the slice and bind inthetoe with a forsecuring the rear portion of the upper wire. It has alsobeen proposed to sew the on one side of the shoe. F ig. 2 illustratesupper to the lip of the innersole around the the work on a larger scale,showing the shoe but this cuts up the upper and the loops extendingthrough the upper and the innersole lip at the toe, particularly innarinnersole lip, the needle with which thel row toed shoes, so asgreatly to weakenV the loops are inserted, and the locking strandmaterial that must hold the inseam or welt which extends through theloops. To avoid attaching seam, ln accordance with the confusion in thelines of the drawings the present invention which involves a novelfastening` is shown as loosely applied, wheremethod of securing theupper in lasted p'oas it will b-eunderstood that in practice the sitionthese difhculties are obviated. loops may be drawn snugly. Fig. 3 showsa In its broadest aspect this invention conshoe, the upper of which hasbeen secured sists in securing an upper in lasted position in accordancewith this invention by a seat a plurality of separate points along theries of stitches at the sides of the shoe and a sides of the shoe andbinding in the toe porbinder at the toe, said stitches and binder tionof the upper with a continuous fastener. being all formed from acontinuous strand This fastener may advantageously be a of fasteningmaterial. Fig. d is a detail.V thread with which stitches may be madeThe toe and heel lasting means of the along the side of the shoe andwhich will drawings comprise wiper plates 2 and 4 of constitute asuitable binder to tie in the toe well known type having continuousedges portion of the upper against the lip of the to embrace and workover the last, or the ininnersole. Among the advantages which nersolethereon, the upper material of an will be apparent for the use of thismethod entire end portion of the shoe at once, At

the heel the marginal portion of the upper is laid down upon theinne'rsole andsecured by tacks whichv may be clenched on the usual heelplate of the last and constitute permanent fastenings. About the toe andalso along the sides of a welt shoe the upper is first to be temporarilysecured and then permanently connected to the lip Iof the innersole bythe inseam formed by the welter in sewing the welt to the lasted shoe.The toe wiper plates therefore lay the upper over the feather of theinnersole and against the upstan'ding face of the lip. The side lastingdevices 'are a series of pincers 5 'shown 'as 'four o'n each side of'the shoe, which operate to 'pull 'the upper yover the last bottoni andhold it under tension until it is secured. The 'pincers may be of wellknown construction, such for example shown in Chase Patent No. 478,501.The stitch form ing apparatus is illustrated as a hand sewing tool 6having` a curved needle `Sada'pted to carry a loop through the upper andthe Y lip of the innersole.

In practising the invention a loop 10 is passed by the needle Athroughthe upper and the lip of the inner'sole at the point where the uppershould be secured for holding it in lasted position. This loop may bepassed through the upper adjacent to the pincer or elsewhere at such adistance from the lip as will cause Athe stitch to tighten or draw theupper into `desired snug relation to the lip. Alternatively the loop maybe passed from the innerside outwardly through the lip first and thenthrough the upper. The free end portion 12 of the strand of thefastening'- mat'erial will be long enough to reach around the shoe tolock the loops. Alternatively a separate strand of the same or ofdifferent fastening material may be used to lock the loops. The needleis preferably advan'ced through the layers of 'stock to be united farenough to permit a partial retraction to open the loop. This having beendone, the end portion'of the strand is passed through the loop and theloop is tightened to form atype 'of lock stitch of well knowncharacteristics Another loop i's then similarly passed thro'ugh theupper and lip at the next point Awhere securing is desired and theoperation repeated from the rear of the shoe until the toe is reached.Each stitch, as herein described, locks or anchors the fasteningmaterial but a different form of stitch might be Wused inwhich specialmanipulation would be given to lock the 'fastening Inaterialat the firststitch and to anchor it at the stitches next the toe. The fasteningmaterial, 'and it may be leither or both strands and inthe latter casethey may or may not be twisted into 1a unit, is then passed around thetoe portion of yhe upper which has been shaped by 'the wiper edgesagainst the upstanding lip of the innersole to form a seat for thebinder. The wipers may be partially backed ofi` the work, as is usualfor this` purpose. The fastening material is tightened to bind the upperexternally to the lip and may be temporarily held tight byv advancingthe wipers again; or the binder may be tightened as a part of theoperation of tightening the first stitch on the second side of the shoe.This first loop, when tightened in forming the stitch, anchors thesecond end of the binder, the first end of which was anchored by thelast vstitch formed on the -fi'rst side ofthe shoe, as in fact it was byeach stitch on that side of the shoe. Stitches are now made at suchother points 'along the ball and shank of the second side of the vshoeasare required forholding' the upper to the lip; .TheseV stitches mayadvantageously beV located close to the pincer pulling points and may beon veither or` both sides of such points. The pincersrnay be releasedprogressively as the stitching lprogresses if suitably arranged for thatpurpose or they may all after the securing operation is completed; Thewipers will also be backed completely off the shoe at a suitable timeand the shoe removed from the machine. It will Vbe obs served that bythis invention I apply an outside binder to the lasted shoe from theshank on one side to the toe, then around 'the toe and back to the shankon the second side of the shoe. I anchor at its ends but at such pointsintermediate the ends and the vtoe as require attachment to the 'shoe inorder to cause the portion of the binder between the points ofattachnient to hold the upper against the innersole 'in position totaching machine. The section of the binder which extends around the toeof the shoe is entirely external or youtside the upper and is maintainedin binding position bythe tension upon it and by the shape of the toe;In so 'considering the outside strand as such a binder extending varoundthe shoe from shank to shank it is immaterial whether the outside strandis the loop containing 'strand as in Fig. 2 or is the locking strand orportion 'of the strand as in Fig. Ll.

Having set forth the nature of this invention and explained how it maybe used I desire to secure by Letters United vStates :protection for allthe patentable novelty herein disclosed and I particularly claim thefollowing:

1. The meth-od ofV making shoes which consists in working an 'upperyover a last, an'd securing the upper to the innersole lip at intervalsalong the sides of the shoe from the shank rforwardly and binding theupper to the lip about the toe porti-on cf the shoe all 'with a'continuous strand.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast,

be released togetherbe sewed by the welt at-V Patent of vthe this bindernot only stitching the upper to the lip of the innersole along one sideof the shoe from the shank forwardly to the ball, then binding the upperto the lip about the toe and then stitching the upper to the lip on thesecond side of the shoe rearwardly to the shank.

3. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and 1n acontinuous line around the toe, anchoring a strand at the rear of oneside, fastening the upper to the lip of the innersole by the strandadjacent to each overworking point along that side, binding the upperexternally to the lip by said strand around the toe, fastening the upperby the strand adjacent to the overworking points along the second side,and anchoring the end of the strand.

Il. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast, anchoring' a strand at the rear of one side, securing the upper bystitches along that side to the toe, anchoring the strand, binding theupper entirely externally to the lip of the innersole around the toe,anchoring the binder, stitching the second side of the shoe, andanchoring the strand at the rear of the second side.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast, passing a loop of a strand through the upper and the lip of theinnersole, and anchoring the loop at intervals along one side of theshoe from the rear toward the toe, externally binding the toe portion ofthe upper to the lip by thestrand, and then securing the upper on thesecond side of the shoe from the toe rearwardly at intervals in the samemanner as the lirst side has been secured.

6. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast, passing` a loop of a strand through the upper and the lip of theinnersole, locking the loop with one end portion of the strand,repeating this operation at intervals from the rear toward the toe tosecure one side of the upper, binding the toe portion of the upperexternally to the lip of the innersole, and securing` the second sidefrom the toe rearwardly by loops locked with the end portion of thestrand.

7. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast, stitching the upper to the lip along one side from the rearforwardly with a double thread, binding the upper externally to the lipby the two thread strands, and then stitching the upper to the lip alongthe second side of the shoe from the toe rearwardly.

8. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast, Stitching the upper to the innersole from the rear toward the toeand anchoring the stitching material, making a binder of the stitchingmateria and securing-the upper externally about the toe therewith,anchoring said binder, and stitching the upper rearwardly along` theopposite side of the shoe.

9. That improvement in method of making welt shoes which consists intemporarily securing the uppers in lasted position along the sides andaround the toe by a continuous fastener which is anchored at a.plurality of points along one side, then extends as a binder whollyexternally around the toe and is anchored at intervals along the balland shank of the second side.

10. That improvement in method of making welt shoes which consists inworking the upper over a last and applying a continuous binder from theshank on one side around the toe to the shank on the other side byanchoring the binder to the upper and the innersole at points along thesides of the shoe required for causing it to coniine the upper inposition to be sewed to the innersole lip and extending the middleportion of the binder under tension entirely externally around the toeportion of the shoe.

11. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and in acontinuous line around the toe, holding the upper temporarily inoverworked position, inserting a series of stitches through the upperand lip of the innersole to secure the upper in position for the nalinseam sewing' operation, and releasing the upper from the temporaryholding means progressively as the stitches are inserted.

12. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over alast at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and in acontinuous line around the toe, holding the upper temporarily inoverworked position, inserting a series of stitches at the sides of theshoe through the upper and lip of the innersole to secure these partstogether, binding the upper externally to the lip by a strand of thestitch forming material around the toe, and releasing the upperprogressively from its temporary holding' means during the uppersecuring and binding operations.

13. The method of making shoes which comprises inserting a threadfastener through the upper and lip of the innersole, passing a length ofthread from the fastener about the toe of the shoe, and inserting asecond fastener at the opposite side of the toe to anchor the toe threadin place and bind in the toe portion of the upper.

14. '.lhe method of making shoes which comprises passing a thread fromthe outside of the shoe through the upper and lip of the nnersole at onea Stitch, carrying the thread around the outside of the toe and forminga second stitch from the Supply thread upon the op- .poste side of thetoe to anchor the `toe thread and bind in the toe portion of the upper.

Copie's of this patent may be obtained for side of the toe to forni nameto -this specification n' two subsorlbmg Witnesses.

JAMES CAVANAGH;

l In testimony whereof l vhave signedl my the presence of ve cents each,by addressing 'che Commssioxier of Patents.

Washington, D. CQ"

